Walking The Ceredigion Coastal Path 13

I recently began a walk along the Ceredigion Coastal Path which, as part of the Wales Coast Path, runs from Cardigan in the south over 60 miles to Ynyslas on the northern edge of the county. This is my diary of the event.

Tuesday 28th May 2019
Location: Camping on the Farm, Aberaeron

It’s cold, the wind has been blowing 20mph all night, rain too. The rain has stopped now although it may return for a bit later, then it should dry out for the rest of the day. That’s my window to hit the trail for Llanrhystud. I was cold in the night, I finally ended up fully clothed, woolly hat, in my sleeping bag, in my bivvi bag with all the drawstrings pulled tight to cut out the wind. At one point I thought the tent had collapsed on me before remembering I was in the bivvi and reorienting my sight out of the hole to see the tent was still up.

The sea here is a constant white noise, the waves don’t crash and there’s no way to get below the sound waves. Up on the headlands it’s easy to duck below a dip or a hedgerow and the wind and wave noise just disappears. Here at sea level both are constant. The similarity of the noise of the sea has to traffic noise on a nearby motorway is uncanny.

The water has boiled now and a cup of tea is ready. I had pondered how to bring milk for my tea on this walk, in the end opting for none. I’ve got used to drinking black tea now, its taste is a little more tart than it’s milky relation but eminently drinkable.

My dreams have slipped away from me again leaving fragments, a bus journey in stormy weather up through the Scottish Highlands, although the bus interior is more panelled like a vintage train carriage and the driver leaves the wheel to come back to check tickets. I go forward to find the bus climbing its way up a steep track following the road as it bears in a right hand curve with the rain coming down and hedgerows looming above us. A car coming in the opposite direction passes us easily, wipers and lights on in the stormy night.

The forecast’s changed, the last bit of rain is not going to come in. The temperature has warmed up now, I’ve spent the last couple of hours in my sleeping bag with the addition of my coat and I’ve now eaten breakfast and shed my coat. Things are looking up. Next plan of action is to head into town, get a sandwich for lunch and some soya yoghurt for breakfast for the next couple of days, then head back here and strike camp. One great advantage of plant based dairy alternatives is that they don’t go off in the same way the real stuff does when left at room or outside temperature. That has been a lifesaver for my morning yoghurt and muesli routine.

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Go well!

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