I recently began a walk along the Ceredigion Coastal Path which, as part of the Wales Coast Path, runs from Cardigan in the south over 60 miles to Ynyslas on the northern edge of the county. This is my diary of the event.
Saturday 25th May 2019 14:00
Location: Pen Y Badell
The track rose quickly from Penbryn and the rest of that section now feels a blur. A steep grassy meadow lead down to the busy tourist beach of Llanadog. I considered a portion of chips but having been spoilt by Stoke-on-Trent prices where a bag containing almost too many chips to eat costs less than £2, paying £3 for a handful in a cone was a step too far so I settled myself down on the edge of the beach by the exit to the next section of the coast walk.
Discarding shirt, boots and socks I made up a Huel and rested and drank for as long as I could. The beach was buzzing with Bank Holiday-makers and locals, Kayakers* and toe-dippers and possibly students smoking and enjoying the sunshine. I sat on the last part of the concrete path off the beach leaning up against the wall of an open air cafe and took in the sights of life off the trail for a little while.
With 4G mobile signal available I checked for campsites and came up a blank unless I wanted to walk three miles inland for one that was simultaneously described as the best campsite ever and the worst campsite ever. With nearly a litre of water I figured I’d have enough to make it to just before or just after Cwm Tydu and would have curry from a can again tonight, meaning I didn’t need to forage for supplies immediately. With New Quay on the horizon tomorrow, and then hopefully Aberaeron or Llanrhystud or perhaps both the day after for an easy couple of days camping.
The climb out of Llangranrog was a bit of a monster and the path a bit busier with access to another beach cove sharing the same track, from there it was a climb up to the shadows of Pen Y Badell, a Celtic hill fort. I was hoping to spend some time there but the path skirts around the bottom of it, with towering sides maybe another couple of hundred feet higher still. Another steep grassy meadow climb put me on the same altitude as the fort and Ynys Lochtyn before me and the coast stretching off to the right.
So my plan now is to take it easy for the rest of the day, walk for a bit, rest up for a bit, find a sleepy spot around 6pm and cook up the other can of vegetable curry.
*Did you know that uppercase ‘K’ in Inuit is pronounced ‘h’? So Kayak should actually be pronounced hiyak in English?
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